Messing with an iconic dish is risky business. So instead let's say that what's about to happen here is a tribute. By varying the components in one of the world's great dishes—using vegetables, tofu, shellfish, beans, or different grains and seasonings—we can all eat some spin on chicken and rice more often.

The photos and captions below walk through the process, offer ingredient variations, and describe adjustments in timing with visual cues. The recipe at the bottom will help you with quantities—or leave you with a skillet full of saffron-scented chicken and rice. I suggest you read everything through, decide your ingredients, and have those ingredients handy. Once you're cooking, if at any point the skillet gets ahead of you, just move it off the heat. Ready?

Sear something

Put a knob of butter or film of oil—chosen to reflect how much you want to taste it—in a deep 12-inch skillet over medium heat. (You should have a fitted lid or foil nearby.) When it's shimmering, add whatever you want as "the chicken." That could be bone-in chicken parts, pork chops or steak, or tofu planks. It could also be cauliflower steaks, split eggplants or delicata squash, portobello mushroom caps, wedges of cabbage. (You see where I'm going.) Sprinkle with salt and adjust the heat so whatever you've got sizzles around the edges without burning. (You'll be able to see and smell the difference without peeking.) Resist the temptation to fuss before it’s well seared. It's okay if the fit is a little snug; as long as you let the food brown on one side before you start moving it, you’ll still get a good crust. Then turn, move, rotate as necessary to even the color, and transfer the pieces to a plate as they're ready.

Gloss the grains and season

When the pan is empty, tip it to check the fat. Spoon off or add more to get you to 2 to 4 tablespoons—less if the food you just cooked is fatty; more if you're using plants. If you like, soften some aromatics like onion, leeks, garlic, shallots, or ginger in the hot pan. Now decide if you're going with white short-grain rice or something else. (We'll call this "the base.") Steel cut oats, quinoa, or lentils will all cook in about the same time as the rice in the recipe below. To use something longer-cooking—like millet, farro, or brown rices, give them a head start before returning the "chicken" to the pan. You'll be using your judgment and checking for doneness but no harm in that. After tossing the grains or lentils in the oil, stir in seasoning. A curry or chile blend, a five-spice “plus”, dried or fresh rosemary or oregano are all great, as is almost anything else you can think of. If going with saffron you don't need more than a small pinch; how much of other spices will depend on their potency. If unsure, go easy and taste and add more later.

Add liquid and assemble