How To Up Your Herb Game

A little encouragement and some friendly tips

Photo: Kerri Conan

At the first sight of weeds in the spring, I crawl out of my spice cabinet and head for greener pastures. For me, that means the garden. For you that might be the farmers market, a neighbor's yard, or the produce aisle. We share a singular goal: More fresh herbs.

I've been growing herbs for almost 25 years, every place from an old tire or a hodgepodge of containers to a huge organic garden in rural Kansas. For the last decade, my herbs have chased the sun in semi-urban backyards, nestled into relatively small terra cotta pots set on sturdy wagons.

Kerri’s Kansas herb garden

The flexibility and ease of container herb gardening makes it wildly popular, especially if you have a sunny patio or deck, or a greenhouse window for year-round growing inside. The mobility of four wheels solves almost every other remaining challenge.

Before I get into the nitty-gritty of gardening, let's review the culinary herb basics, starting with some heresy. Though no two herbs taste alike (and indeed different varieties of the same herb can taste wildly different), they become interchangeable if you operate from the position that any fresh herb is better than no fresh herb — coupled with a general use-what-you've-got philosophy. 

This substitution game works best when you divide common herbs into two groups: those with twig-like stems ("strong" herbs high in volatile oils like rosemary, lavender, oregano, marjoram, mint, epazote, thyme); and those with tender green stems ("milder" herbs like basil, cilantro, dill, parsley, chervil, and chives). 

If you have a choice among varieties, here are a handful of my suggestions: For basil, Genovese, or so-called sweet basils over small-leafed options, and definitely Thai or purple when possible as an additional choice. Hands down, spearmints are more nuanced and less toothpaste-y than peppermints; I don't bother with chocolate mint or the other so-called flavors but some folks do like them. Big-leafed Greek oregano is awesome if you can find it. The best-tasting rosemary smells like flowers, not pine cones. And flat-leaf versus curly leaf parsley is a personal choice based more on texture than flavor. 

Learning to grow herbs is like any new skill: Start small (with two or three kinds); get advice from more experienced friends, a trusted local nursery, or farmers at the market (where you're likely to also run into knowledgeable home gardeners); and do a little research about your United States Department of Agriculture growing zones so you know what to plant when and which (if any) perennial herbs will over-winter where you live. 

Whether you grow in the ground or in containers, your soil must be loose and loamy, dark and rich in nutrients, well-drained, and of neutral ph—all, but especially the last, are considerations that make container gardening much easier. You get some good-quality plain potting soil (I prefer organic over pre-treated self-fertilizing brands), a bottle of fish or seaweed emulsion, or a balanced dry organic fertilizer (your reliable sources will be able to help you with that), and your pots (and wheels if you don't have all day sun anywhere) and you're ready to go. I also advocate a layer of compost for mulching beneath the plants but it's not necessary.

Starting herbs from seed is tricky but if you want to try — and live in a moderate climate — cilantro and dill are the easiest. Otherwise small plants offer a solid chance for success. Make sure they're healthy-looking and lush, ideally free of flowers (a sign they're "bolting" and going to seed, which requires specialized care), and that the roots aren't straggling out the bottom through the drainage hole.

You can almost never plant your starters too deep. It's far better to bury them an inch or so below where the bottom leaves sprout from the stalk than to leave any hint of the root ball showing. Once you get some soil in the pot, gently invert the plant to release it from its growing container, loosen the root ball with your fingers (it's okay if some ends break off), set it in the dirt upright, and fill the pot about an inch from the top. Pat gently and add more dirt or a layer of compost. If the plants are small or fragile-looking — or you've got big pots — you can put multiple plants in the same pot. Some gardeners like to mix different herbs in the same container. Pretty for sure, but less practical since it’s tougher to control how you water and feed them individually. 

After transplanting immediately saturate the soil but from then onward be careful not to overwater. I plunge my index finger into the pot as a test to see how dry the soil is below the surface. In general, the tender-stemmed herbs require more water than the twiggy-stemmed kinds. Wait a week before beginning a fertilizing routine; just follow the directions for measuring and frequency on the package. 

I'm a judicious harvester and usually pluck the biggest leaves and anything on the top that looks like it's starting to flower. That helps force growth on the bottom of the plant, especially when they're beginning. Later in the season, you can cut whole sprigs. Mints, chives, and some other perennials will grow back after cutting all the way down (in fact mints are super aggressive and will take over and spread unless somehow contained) but in general, herbs won't grow back if you cut the plants back more than about 30 percent at a time. You'll get the hang of that with experience.

Once picked, herbs keep best like cut flowers in an inch or two of water. Basil is the most fragile and keeps best on the counter; the rest can go in the fridge. I dry extra thyme, rosemary, Thai basil, oregano, and lavender to use during the winter but that's probably a story for another day.

If you're interested in more herb garden tips, check out these posts from when I chronicled my garden on Mark's New York Times blog in 2009 (yikes!!!).

Garden Groundwork - Soil is the sofrito of the garden

Sex and the Seedy

The Drying Game

And now that you've got lots of green stuff in hand, check out this bunch of herb-forward recipes exclusively for Bittman Project members:

• Linguini with Deconstructed Pesto

• Coconut-Herb Marinated Crisp Tofu

• Grilled (or Broiled) Pork Tenderloin with Herbed Bread Crumbs

• Chickpea Tabbouleh

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Linguini with Deconstructed Pesto

Early days for this Genovese-style sweet basil — indoors, under a skylight since it's still cold and rainy here. Photo: Kerri Conan 

Makes: 4 servings
Time: 30 minutes

Try this sometime: Instead of pureeing the ingredients (and then later washing out a blender or food processor) simply sauté garlic and pine nuts in olive oil while the pasta cooks, then add the cheese and toss. Steamed greens like spinach or arugula go well on the side—or even in the same bowl.

Ingredients

• Salt

• 4 garlic cloves

• 1/3 cup olive oil

• 1/2 cup pine nuts

• 2 cups loosely packed fresh basil leaves

• 1 pound linguine or other long, thin pasta

• 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese (about 4 ounces)

Instructions

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Smash the garlic cloves with the flat side of a knife and discard the skins; chop. Put the oil, pine nuts, and garlic in a large skillet over medium-low heat and sprinkle with salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the pine nuts and garlic just turn golden, 2 to 4 minutes. Turn off the heat and stir in the whole basil leaves.

2. Add the pasta to the boiling water, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes, then start tasting. When the pasta is tender but still has some bite, scoop out 1 cup cooking water, then drain the pasta.

3. Immediately add the pasta to the skillet along with half the cheese and a splash of the cooking water and turn the heat to medium. Toss to coat the pasta evenly, adding a little more cooking water if necessary to create a creamy—but not soupy— sauce. Taste, adjust the seasoning, adding more cheese if you like, and serve, passing the remaining cheese at the table.

—Recipe from Dinner for Everyone

Linguini With Deconstructed Pesto

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Coconut-Herb Marinated Crisp Tofu

Photo: Aya Brackett

Makes: 4 servings
Time: at least 1 1/2 hours, largely unattended

This recipe is inspired by "escabeche," the tradition of marinating food after cooking common to the Philippines, Caribbean, and South America. The base is usually grilled or fried fish but the technique is perfect for seasoning deep-fried tofu. Coconut milk is an excellent vehicle to deliver a rich soaking sauce of fresh herbs. It's great over salad greens, rice, or grains or slipped into sandwiches or tortillas. Since the dish can be made ahead and travels well, try it as a vegan contribution to summer potlucks and picnics.

Ingredients

• One 15-ounce can coconut milk (reduced fat is okay here)

• 1 cup fresh mint

• 1/2 cup coconut vinegar or rice vinegar

• 3 large garlic cloves, lightly smashed

• 1 fresh green chile (like jalapeno or serrano), seeded if you like less heat and chopped

• 1 tablespoon turbinado sugar, or to taste

• Salt and pepper

• 1/2 cup unsweetened shredded coconut

• Good-quality vegetable oil (like grapeseed or sunflower) for deep frying

• 2 blocks firm tofu (24 to 32 ounces total)

• 1/2 cup cornstarch

Instructions

1. Put the coconut milk, mint, vinegar, garlic, chile, and sugar in a blender or food processor and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Process until smooth, stopping to scrape down the sides as necessary. The sauce should coat the back of a spoon. If it's too thick, add water 1 tablespoon at a time. Stir the shredded coconut into the marinade. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

2. Spread a clean work surface with towels. Cut one of the tofu blocks across into slices no more than 1/2-inch thick. (The goal is 8 but 6 or 7 works for blocks that are small or crumbly.) Cut each slice diagonally to form a triangle. (You'll have 12, 14, or 16). Now repeat with the other block. Spread the triangles on the towels and pat dry; carefully remove the towel and return the tofu to a single layer. Sprinkle half the cornstarch over the top, turn and repeat on the other side. Set a wire rack in a rack in a rimmed baking sheet and have it handy by the stove.

3. Put 2 to 3 inches oil in a large pot over medium heat; bring the oil to 350°F. (If you don't have a thermometer, test with a cube of bread which should bubble immediately but not burn.) When the oil is hot, work in batches to carefully and slowly add several tofu triangles to the pot. They should sputter and begin to turn golden without scorching or smoking. Cook, turning once or twice and adjusting the heat as necessary, until the pieces are golden brown and puffy, 2 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer with a slotted spoon to the rack, and sprinkle with salt. Repeat with the remaining tofu.

4. Put the tofu in a deep serving dish and pour the marinade over it. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour (or up to 12) and serve cold or at room temperature.

—Recipe adapted from Dinner for Everyone

Coconut Herb Marinated Tofu Crisp

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Grilled (or Broiled) Pork Tenderloin with Herbed Bread Crumbs

Photo: Kerri Conan

Makes: 4 to 6 servings
Time: 45 minutes

Putting crumb crust on meat, fish, poultry, or vegetables can be a challenge, especially if you plan to use a lot of herbs or cook the food on the grill. Much easier and foolproof to separate the dish into two components. Besides better control of cooking the "main thing," you end up with all the full-flavored crunch you wanted, the herbs don't get scorched by the flames, and there might even be some topping leftover to garnish something else tomorrow. All you need on the side are cooked vegetables or a salad.

Ingredients

• 1 large or 2 small pork tenderloins (1 1/2 to 2 pounds)

• Salt

• 5 tablespoons olive oil

• 3 or 4 garlic cloves

• 1/2 cup packed "strong" herb leaves (the twiggy-stemmed kind like rosemary, sage, oregano, thyme, or mint; alone or in combination)

• 1 cup coarse bread crumbs (like homemade or panko)

• Pepper

Instructions

1. Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for medium indirect cooking (make sure the grates are clean) or turn on the broiler and position the rack about 4 inches below the heat.

2. Use a sharp knife to split the tenderloin(s) lengthwise almost all the way through and open it (or them) like a book. Sprinkle all sides of the meat with salt and drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the oil; rub the meat all over to coat.

3. Put the remaining 4 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Peel and chop the garlic cloves and add them to the skillet. Chop the herbs as coarsely or finely as you like (if using different kinds, together is fine). In a couple minutes, when the garlic starts to sizzle and puff, stir it with a spatula then add the bread crumbs.

4. Cook, stirring occasionally until the bread crumbs and garlic darken to your desired level of doneness, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir in the herbs and some salt and pepper. Taste and adjust the seasoning and let the bread crumb topping sit.

5. When the grill (or broiler) is ready, put the pork on the grates over direct heat cut side down (or in a pan under the broiler, cut side up). Cover the grill and cook until the meat chars in spots and releases easily, about 5 minutes; turn and repeat with the other side. (Or broil until browned and turn; the timing should be about the same.) Use a small knife to nick and peek inside to see if the pork is done; it should be one stage less pink than you eventually want it. If it's still too rare, move it to the cool side of the grill (or turn off the broiler) and check back in a minute or 2.

6. When the pork is ready, let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes. To serve, top with half of the herbed crumbs. (Those that fall into the accumulated juices will soak them up!) Slice slightly on the bias as thick or thinly you like. Pass the remaining topping at the table. 

— Recipe adapted from How to Cook Everything Completely Revised Twentieth Anniversary Edition

Grilled (or Broiled) Pork Tenderloin With Herbed Bread Crumbs

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Chickpea Tabbouleh

Photo: Kerri Conan

Makes: 4 servings
Time: 30 minutes

Traditional tabbouleh is all about the herbs, though many recipes spin it into a bulgur-parsley-and-tomato salad. Mark has this week’s budget recipe version that keeps the herbs in full view but swaps mashed chickpeas for the bulgur and loads in extra chopped vegetables. The result is a flexible warm-weather dinner that's economical, too, since parsley is the least expensive fresh by the bunch. Consider dill and/or mint sprigs as optional additions. More ideas: Vary the legume and try this with homecooked heirloom beans or lentils or canned cannellini or black-eyed peas; substitute chopped walnuts, pistachios, or almonds for the pine nuts; for the vegetables, try chopped grilled or roasted eggplant or simply cooked greens. And one final pro tip: Wait until Step 2 to prep the vegetables as described in the ingredient list, then just chop and drop them into the bowl of mashed chickpeas as you work.

Ingredients

• 3 1/2 cups cooked or canned chickpeas (two 15-ounce cans)

• 2 large tomatoes, chopped

• 2 celery stalks (the leaves are good too), chopped

• 1 bell pepper, chopped

• 6 or 7 radishes, chopped

• 2 scallions, chopped

• 1 cup chopped fresh parsley (flat or curly leaves, your choice)

• 1/2 cup chopped fresh mint or dill (or use another 1/2 cup parsley)

• 16 black olives, pitted and chopped (optional)

• 4 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, or more to taste

• Salt and pepper

Instructions

1. Drain the chickpeas; if they’re canned, rinse them under running water and drain again. Put the chickpeas in a large bowl and mash with a fork or a potato masher until the beans break up a bit to resemble coarse grain.

2. Add the vegetables and herbs. Pour in the olive oil and 1 tablespoon lemon juice and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss until everything is combined and coated in dressing. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding lemon juice and more salt and pepper as you like. Serve right away or refrigerate for up to 2 hours and serve chilled.

—Recipe adapted from The VB6 Cookbook

Chickpea Tabbouleh

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