The Choreography of Cooking
Plus: Being delighted by squash, what "heritage" means, and I get interviewed
This Week’s Marksisms
For the Love of Squash
I get almost as excited about winter squash in October as I do about tomatoes in July. I can’t get enough of it.
Yesterday I took this Glynwood-grown (thank you, Jarret) koginut, and pre-baked it, not whole but in 3/4-inch slices. (I cut through it vertically; it was small enough to do it while raw, but please, if you do this, be careful because you need a lot of pressure and if that knife slips or recoils … that can be bad.) These I baked casually, slowly (around 350 for about an hour, turning once), with nothing but salt, in a non-stick skillet (I highly recommend this one). I cooled those slices on a rack, then dredged them in spice-mix-spiked blue cornmeal and sautéed them in olive oil. So great.
What Does “Heritage” Mean?
Also, it’s not whether seeds are heirloom or not, it’s whether they have desirable characteristics. Sure, many old seeds do. But you gotta let seeds do their thing.
Today on Food, we revisit a popular episode from a year ago: Kerri and I talk to Kate about the revised edition of How to Cook Everything Fast, the myth of mise en place, learning a method of cooking that will last a lifetime, and Noodles with Minty Scallion Sauce and Sliced Chicken. The recipe from today’s episode, Spinach Carbonara, can be found here.