The touchstone version of pesto is sublime, but it’s been done to death, including by me. So let’s explore new territory. The color contrast of this dish is indisputably gorgeous, and the combination of earthy dumplings and herbaceous sauce is unbeatable.

Makes: 4 servings
Time: 2 to 4 hours

Ingredients

• About 2 pounds beets

• 1 cup shelled pistachios

• 1 cup fres…