Searching for Africa in Paris

Travel to the 18th arrondissement with the Bittman Project

All photos: Kayla Stewart

After months of dreaming of travel, when the travel ban lifted, I made arrangements to visit the city I’d been dreaming of but hadn’t yet been: Paris. I last visited France during an undergraduate teaching opportunity in the Italian Alps, but limited money and time impeded a trip to the City of Light. I finally got to see what all of the adoration was about to kick off this summer. And yes, within a day, I was smitten.

Paris immediately spoke to me in a way that no city has. Walking from one arrondissement to another, I was introduced to people who treasure beauty, whether it’s through a seemingly simple, yet deeply intricate Parisian balcony, or a plate of foie gras drizzled with bright honey and sea salt.

While I’m wholly enamored with Parisian culture, I’ve always had a complicated relationship with Europe. Though it’s seen as the exemplar of progressive politics, I’ve found frustration that the continent’s countries have violently wreaked havoc across the globe for centuries – particularly in Africa – yet are able to claim a legacy of peace that’s fairly recent. A recent exposé from the New York Times on France’s devastating presence and impact on Haiti illuminated what many academics and Black folks across the diaspora have known for years: Black culture has been pillaged, vilified, and gutted, largely with little to no repercussions.

It’s why, when I travel, I seek out Black communities whenever I can find them. While I can’t fix what white supremacy has done to my people, I can learn how we’ve survived, resisted, and created joy in whichever places we’ve found home in this world.

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It’s why, when I travel, I seek out Black communities whenever I can find them. While I can’t fix what white supremacy has done to my people, I can learn how we’ve survived, resisted, and created joy in whichever places we’ve found home in this world.

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I knew that Black immigrant communities make up a significant part of modern Paris, and face challenges similar to Black people in white nations across the world. Still, I’d heard that Black Parisians had found ways to create their own communities and enclaves, perhaps most notably in the 18th arrondissement’s Goutte d'Or neighborhood, which translates to “Drop of Gold.”  Known by some as “Little Africa,” Goutte d’Or has become a hub of safety and inclusion for African immigrants from numerous countries, including Senegal, Ghana, and Algeria. African immigration to the neighborhood began to spike around the 1920s, and data indicate that at least 35 percent of the area is of immigrant origin. Of course, African immigrants and people within the Black diaspora live throughout Paris, but Goutte d’Or’s history makes it an important area within Paris to learn about African Parisian culture and community. 

I went on a tour with Little Africa, a woman-owned tour group that aims to highlight the gems found in and around Goutte d'Or. My tour focused on history and fabric, but, ever the food writer, I was immediately drawn to the food stalls, restaurants, and markets that attracted waves of people. I decided to return to eat, and, true to its name, I found food that is a true treasure of Paris.

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Le Marché Dejean

23 Rue de Suez, 75018 Paris

Bustling with Parisians of all backgrounds, Le Marché Dejean is just a few blocks from the Barbès - Rochechouart metro station, which is known as one of the primary entrances to Goutte d'Or. Here, African immigrants can find produce and ingredients that are integral to various African cuisines, such as okra, the flaming hot scotch bonnet peppers, and cassava. The market is surrounded by various specialty stories, including halal butcher shops for the area’s growing Muslim community, and African-owned boulangeries and chocolate shops. 

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Restaurant Sénégalais — Balie Bousso

25 Rue Léon, 75018 Paris

I have a theory that the best places to eat are often the most simple. Such was the case at Restaurant Sénégalais - Balie Bousso, where the staff offers two menu options each day. I visited the unassuming eatery on a Wednesday, which is when they served yassa poulet, a spicy fish or chicken dish prepared with onion, mustard, and various aromatics, and thieboudienne, a rich, one pot dish known as the mother of jollof rice. My sister shared with me a large plate of thieboudienne, which included deeply flavored rice, cabbage, cassava, fish, scotch bonnet, and a large carrot. Our waitress served us three types of sauce, including an extremely spicy take on shitto, as well as an Au Lait Baobab Smoothie, which had a light, vanilla almond taste. I practically inhaled my side of the dish, and my sister, a vegan-ish eater, was kind enough to let me enjoy the entire fish, a kind offering from someone who still indulges in seafood.

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Koyaka Kitchen

36 Rue Myrha, 75018 Paris

This locals-friendly stop can be a bit overwhelming thanks to a constant influx of patrons, but the flavors are well worth it. The buffet-style kitchen offers West African staples like whole fried fish, thieboudienne, jollof rice, and groundnut soup. If seats aren’t available, take your people to go and enjoy lunch or dinner at one of the nearby parks.

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Au Marché de la Côte d'Ivoire

66 Rue Doudeauville, 75018 Paris

Opened in 1994, the Ivoirienne-owned shop is a small, but mighty grocery store. At Au Marché de la Côte d'Ivoire, patrons can purchase items imported from Côte d'Ivoire, like stunning plantain, deep red hibiscus flowers for bissap, and various powders used as an aid for pain reduction, digestion, and inflammation.

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Osé African Cuisine

34 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, 75010 Paris

African food, regardless of the country of origin, rarely gets the same treatment as other cuisines. It’s often viewed as inaccessible to outsiders, and difficult to understand. The owners of Osé African Cuisine know this is inaccurate, and have given West African cuisine the fast-casual treatment. With multiple locations in Paris, owners Gabriel and Morlaye have come to epitomize cool, and offer West African food that’s hearty, well-seasoned, and reflective of a new generation of Black eaters. Guests can customize their plates, choosing from offerings like white or jollof rice, chicken, beef, or chickpeas for vegans, and various sides and sauces like roasted plantains, grilled wings, and mafé, a fragrant peanut stew.