Szechuan Mushroom Ragu

In this take on the Szechuan classic, Ma Po Tofu, fresh chiles and fermented black beans deliver tons of flavor. If you’re leery of tofu, the freezing method here eliminates all the common textural complaints and turns it into an entirely different food. However, if you don’t have time — or you forget — to freeze the tofu, it’s better to use 1 pound fir…